Understanding My Skin's Needs in My 40s
In the past few years, I've noticed some subtle shifts in my skin—a new line here, more dullness there—changes that whisper of perimenopause, ageing, and the undeniable influence of hormones. My once trusty skincare routine, the one that kept my complexion balanced and happy, just wasn't cutting it anymore. It was time to ditch the auto-pilot and embark on a journey of rediscovery.
This blog is all about that journey – learning about my skin's new needs, separating skincare essentials from passing fads, and ultimately, crafting a routine that brings back that healthy glow.
I spoke to Kuljeet Kaur Sohal, a prescribing pharmacist, level 7-trained aesthetics practitioner, and founder of Uzuri Aesthetics. You know my love of science, and I was keen to tap into Kuljeet's pharmaceutical knowledge. What does my skin really need? What ingredients really work? What can I ditch from my routine? Let’s dive into what she said.
My Current Skin Problems and Regime
Before we hear from Kuljeet, you need to know the starting point. I naturally have quite normal skin, which is a little on the sensitive side. I’ve always had a skincare regime, but it pretty much just consisted of cleansing, toning, and moisturising with a product range I liked. I didn’t put too much thought into active ingredients. But in the last year or so, since entering perimenopause, I have begun to experience dullness, more sensitivity, and some sagging.
I’m a sucker for a social media skincare video, and recently, I tried to add a few more things to my routine. For the last two months, I put together a routine focused on affordability and gentleness, with some product recommendations from dermatologists.
Here is what I’ve been using: Current routine
Morning:
Cleanser: The Beauty Crop Peptide Cleansing Balm
Serum: L'Oreal Hyaluronic Acid Serum (considering adding Vitamin C)
Moisturiser/SPF: L'Oreal Revitalift Clinical SPF50+ Invisible Fluid or Beauty Crop Vitamin Babe Vitamin Enriched Glow Primer SPF 45
Night:
Cleanser: The Beauty Crop Peptide Cleansing Balm
Retinol: L'Oreal Pure Retinol Night Serum
Moisturiser: Varies (night cream or facial oil) - currently using Arbonne RE9 Advanced overnight face jelly
Skincare Concerns
Dullness
Loss of plumpness
Sensitivity, especially around the eyes
Makeup does not last as well
Looking for
Brighter skin
Anti-ageing benefits
Nourishing and gentle products
Eye cream recommendations (if possible, for sensitive skin)
Questions for Kuljeet
Is toner necessary?
Do I need a separate moisturiser and SPF?
Do I need a night cream or eye cream?
Which active ingredients actually work?
What do I need, and what can I ditch, considering I’m a busy mum of three who needs a quick skincare routine?
Understanding the Skin
Kuljeet began the consultation by talking through the skin anatomy, showing me diagrams and explaining how skin cell production and turnover works. Here is a little summary of what she explained.
Imagine your skin as a three-layer cake:
Top Layer (Epidermis): This is the thin outer layer we see. As we age, cell turnover slows down. In our youth (like babies!), new skin cells rise to the surface quickly, keeping our skin plump and radiant. But as adults, this process takes longer, leading to dullness and dehydration.
Middle Layer (Dermis): This thicker layer provides structure and elasticity. It contains collagen and elastin, which give our skin its youthful bounce.
Bottom Layer (Subcutaneous layer): This fatty layer insulates and protects our bodies.
So, how does this relate to ageing and menopausal skin?
Slower Cell Turnover: As mentioned, cell turnover slows down with age. This contributes to dullness and a loss of that youthful glow.
Hormonal Changes: Menopause throws hormones into flux, which can sometimes lead to breakouts even in those who have never experienced acne in their youth.
Weakened Skin Barrier: The outermost layer (epidermis) acts as a barrier, keeping moisture in and irritants out. With age and hormonal changes, this barrier can weaken, leading to dehydration, sensitivity, and even increased susceptibility to acne.
The Key to Glowing Skin:
Exfoliation: Speeding up cell turnover is key. Alpha Hydroxy Acids (AHAs) like lactic acid, mandelic acid, and glycolic acid can help by gently removing dead skin cells, revealing the brighter, healthier layers beneath. A couple to look out for are:
Environ Botanical Infused Moisturising toner, which contains lactic acid as a gentle daily exfoliator, £43
Obagi Nuderm Exfoderm, which contains phytic acid for dry skin, £111
Obagi Nuderm Exfoderm Forte contains a combination of lactic acid and glycolic acid for oily skin, £111
Barrier Repair: A healthy skin barrier is crucial. Look for ingredients like ceramides in your skincare products, which help repair and strengthen this vital layer.
Remember! Consistency is key! Give new products 4-6 weeks to work their magic, as your skin needs time to adjust.
A quick note regarding some of the product recommendations: Many of these products (not all) are medical-grade skincare, so they are pricier! Medical-grade skincare goes beyond high-street finds. These products are formulated with higher concentrations of clinically tested ingredients, meaning they've undergone rigorous research to ensure their effectiveness. This added science translates to targeted results, making them a pricier but potentially more powerful option for your skin. I’m personally looking to add one or two medical-grade skincare products to my regime to target specific problems. However, some of my skincare products are from the high street. This blog should give you an idea of what products to invest in and the ones you can save money on.
Kuljeet’s Bonus Tip
Harsh physical scrubs can damage the skin barrier. Chemical exfoliation with AHAs is a gentler and more effective approach. By understanding your skin's anatomy and how it changes, you can choose the right products to address your specific concerns and achieve that radiant, healthy glow!
Skin Care Regime
Now, let’s get down to the nitty gritty of my skincare regime and the products I’m using. After watching several dermatologists shout about them, I recently added the L’Oreal hyaluronic acid and retinol products. But I’m sure they contain the right concentration for my skin. I’ve also had to stop using eye creams and masks recently as my skin has become more sensitive.
Acne and AgEing Explained
Ever wonder why you get spots or acne? It all comes down to tiny pores! Each pore has a hair follicle, sweat glands, and oil glands. Sweat, bacteria, and oil can build up in these pores throughout the day. This buildup can lead to whiteheads, blackheads, or even cystic acne if not properly cleansed. I’m very lucky that I don’t suffer from spots of acne. But Kuljeet touched on this topic for information.
Deep cleansing is key for oily or acne-prone skin. Salicylic acid is a hero ingredient here. It dives deep into pores, dissolving dirt and bacteria to prevent breakouts. Hormonal acne? Don't worry, you're not alone! There are even prescription toners with a stronger version of salicylic acid that can help combat those pesky monthly breakouts.
Now, let's talk about ageing! Imagine your skin as a matrix, with collagen and elastin fibres keeping everything firm and youthful. Fibroblast cells produce these fibres, and that's where skincare comes in. While you can't directly replace collagen, certain ingredients can stimulate your fibroblasts to produce more of it.
What are the key ingredients for collagen production? Vitamin C, retinol, and SPF are your anti-ageing dream team.
Vitamin C: This magic ingredient neutralises sun damage and even helps your SPF work better. It also gives your skin a healthy glow and boosts collagen production.
Retinol: A powerful ingredient that helps reduce wrinkles and promote cell turnover for younger-looking skin.
SPF: Your daily BFF! The sun is the biggest culprit behind ageing, so daily SPF is crucial to protect your precious collagen.
By incorporating vitamin C, retinol, and SPF into your routine, you can naturally support your skin's collagen production and achieve a healthy, youthful glow. If you can afford it, you can always tag on a collagen supplement, too, but you really need the skincare elements to see the results from the supplement. So, note to self here - so far, I haven’t been using a Vitamin C serum. This is one product that is a necessity to add in.
When it comes to the right type of Vitamin C Serum, the key is to start low and go slow! Since my skin is sensitive, a 10% concentration of l-ascorbic acid (the purest form of vitamin C) is recommended. This type of Vitamin C might be harder to find on the high street, so you may need to look at medical-grade skincare products.
Here's a quick guide to the percentage of Vitamin C (l-ascorbic acid) for other skin types:
Normal skin: 15%
Oily skin: 20%
Remember, it's always best to introduce new products gradually, especially if you have sensitive skin.
Cleansing and Toning
Think of cleansing as your daily power wash for your face. It removes anything that might be clogging your pores. This is key for everyone, no matter your skin type. While there are certainly targeted cleansers for specific concerns, the most important function of any cleanser is to be gentle and effective at removing dirt, oil, and makeup. If a cleanser does that without leaving your skin feeling tight or stripped, then you're on the right track! Don't overthink it - a gentle clean is all your skin needs to start with a fresh canvas.
My current cleanser is gentle but also contains peptides. These anti-ageing superheroes can help boost your skin's stem cell activity, keeping it youthful and radiant. This is working for me, so I’m going to stick with it.
At the moment, I don’t use a toner. This was one of my main questions for Kuljeet: Do I need to tone? Her answer: It depends on your skin.
Oily side? Toning can be your BFF. It helps balance your skin's pH after cleansing, which can sometimes get disrupted.
Dry side? Toning might not be a must-have. If your cleanser is gentle and doesn't leave your skin feeling stripped, you might be good to skip this step.
The key takeaway? Listen to your skin! A toner might be helpful if it feels tight or uncomfortable after cleansing. But if it feels balanced and happy, you might be doing just fine without it.
Active Ingredients
We’ve already established that I need to add a Vitamin C serum to my routine. But are the hyaluronic acid and retinol products right for me?
Hyaluronic Acid
Hyaluronic acid is a superstar for hydration. It plumps and hydrates, leaving your skin feeling dewy and refreshed. It acts like a magnet, drawing moisture to your skin. This is similar to how dermal fillers work, but hyaluronic acid serums are much thinner and don't stay plumped in one spot.
For best results, apply hyaluronic acid to damp skin. This helps it attract even more moisture. While it won't drastically change your skin, it can provide a daily dose of hydration and a healthy glow. Think of it as a winter essential for dry skin. But how do you know you’re buying an effective product? Start with the ingredient list on the packaging. Ingredients are listed in descending order: The first ingredient is what the product contains the most of, and the list goes down from there. Water is usually at the top!
Look for placement: For hyaluronic acid and retinol to be truly effective, you want them to be higher on the list, ideally within the top 3-4 ingredients. By the way, they are both at least halfway down on the L'Oreal products I am using so these are not really going to be effective - time to try something new!
Kuljeet suggests trying one of the following three products:
Environ: HA Intensive Hydrating Serum £77 (Kuljeet’s personal favourite)
However, hyaluronic acid isn’t a necessity. You may not need this if you start using a good vitamin C, have hyaluronic acid in your moisturiser, and with spring/summer approaching. So have a good look at the rest of your products first.
Retinol: Your Anti-Aging Ally
Retinol is a game-changer for ageing skin. Here's why it's important and how to choose a product. This superstar ingredient helps reduce wrinkles, fine lines, and promotes collagen production, keeping your skin youthful and plump.
As we age, collagen production naturally slows down. Retinol helps combat this by stimulating your skin to create more collagen, resulting in firmer, healthier-looking skin.
Choosing the Right Strength:
Starting Out: For beginners, a retinol concentration of 0.5% to 1% is a great starting point. This allows your skin to adjust comfortably.
Gradually Increase: As your skin gets used to retinol, you can consider moving up to a higher percentage for even stronger results.
Prescription Option: Tretinoin is the strongest form of retinol and requires a prescription. This is a good option for those who see minimal results with lower percentages.
What’s important here is to look for a Retinol percentage. When shopping for a retinol product, check the ingredient list for the percentage. This helps you understand the potency and choose a product that aligns with your skin's needs and experience level. As I mentioned with the hyaluronic acid, the L'Oreal retinol I am using is not going to be very effective. It doesn’t have a percentage, and it’s low on the ingredient list. So Kuljeet said her top three recommendations are:
Skinbetter Science Alpharet Overnight cream, which combines lactic acid with retinol (patented formulation) - great for all skin types, £134
Environ Vita-Peptide C-Quence Serum 1-3, step-wise retinol system, step up every two bottles, £99.95
Obagi Retinol 0.5 for more sensitive prone skin; Obagi Retinol 0.1 for normal skin types
What About Moisturiser and SPF?
At the moment, I’m using my SPF as a moisturiser. Just the one product. To save time and money more than anything. I think the cost of some moisturisers is crazy! Kuljeet says moisturiser is a skincare essential, and I need to add it back into my routine, but I don't feel pressured to break the bank! You’re better off spending your money on active ingredients, as I mentioned above. Here's a quick guide:
Focus on Function: Moisturiser's main job is to hydrate and keep your skin barrier healthy. Expensive doesn't always mean better.
Listen to Your Skin: If your skin is red or sensitive, a moisturiser with barrier-repairing ingredients might be beneficial.
High Street Gems: Brands like CeraVe and La Roche-Posay offer great, affordable options that dermatologists often recommend.
The best moisturiser is the one that works for your unique skin! Don't be afraid to experiment and find what keeps your skin feeling comfortable and healthy.
SPF is your daily defence against the sun's harmful UV rays. These rays can cause premature ageing, wrinkles, and even skin cancer. Including a daily SPF moisturiser is the single most important step you can take to keep your skin healthy and youthful for years to come.
While it might seem convenient to use a moisturiser with built-in SPF, there are two key reasons why experts recommend using them separately:
Moisturisers with SPF often have a lower SPF rating than dedicated sunscreen. This means you might not be getting the full level of protection needed to shield your skin from harmful UV rays.
For optimal protection, sunscreen needs to be reapplied every 2 hours. Since most combination moisturiser-SPF products aren't reapplied as frequently as a standalone sunscreen, you might be compromising on sun protection throughout the day.
Therefore, using a separate moisturiser and SPF ensures you get the proper hydration and maximum sun protection for healthy, glowing skin.
Exfoliators, Masks, Night Creams, Eye Creams, and Other Treatments
I’ll be honest: I don’t currently use an exfoliator, eye cream, or mask (mainly due to my skin being more sensitive since I have an auto-immune condition and symptoms of peri-menopause). Plus, the night creams or oils I use tend to use are the ones that turn up free when you buy other makeup or skincare products. I’ve never put much thought into them. I also like to keep my skincare regime as simple and quick as possible due to being a busy mum of three, running two businesses, and juggling military life.
Face Masks
However, Kuljeet advised weekly masks are a great way to care for your skin. She loves the Dr Levy Cell Matrix mask, which focuses on stem cells and peptides for anti-ageing benefits.
Here are some key takeaways:
Use a mask once a week or even bi-weekly, depending on your preference.
This particular mask is a cream formula that combines ingredients like retinol, omegas, hyaluronic acid, and vitamin E for a nourishing boost.
The Dr Levy Cell Matrix mask is said to be suitable for all skin types.
While this brand is on the expensive side (around £69), the mask lasts a long time due to infrequent use (maybe even a year).
For a cheaper alternative, try the Environ clay mask which is also super hydrating and only £37.
Remember: Masks are an additional step, and a good moisturiser and SPF routine should be your foundation for healthy skin.
Night creams aren't essential for everyone! It depends on your skin type. If your skin feels comfortable without one, you can skip it.
For nighttime routines, however, retinol is the game-changer for ageing skin. It helps with wrinkles and boosts collagen production. Kuljeet recommends Skinbetter Science AlphaRet overnight cream that combines retinol with lactic acid. This is a great option because the lactic acid provides added moisture, eliminating the need for a separate night cream. I’ve already mentioned this product in the retinol section. But it combines everything you need for a retinol treatment, night cream, and lactic acid exfoliator, so you get three products in one. So consider that when you see the price. This all-in-one product leaves your skin feeling hydrated and refreshed in the morning. As a busy mum and business owner, the fewer steps in my skincare regimes, the better.
Eye Creams
Eye cream is a popular product, but is it a must-have? I find most eye creams hurt my eyes, and I don’t have any problems with wrinkles around my eyes. So, I’m skipping this step. If you are interested in eye creams, here's a breakdown:
Consider the Cost: Eye creams are an extra expense, so factor that in.
Thinner Skin, Special Needs? The under-eye area has thinner skin and might benefit from targeted care. However, if your regular moisturiser keeps it hydrated, you might be okay.
Cell Turnover: The under-eye area has a slower cell turnover rate (8 weeks compared to 4-6 weeks for the face). This means results from eye creams might take longer to see. Be patient!
So, do you need one? It depends! If your under-eye area feels good with your current routine, you might not need a dedicated cream. However, if you have concerns like wrinkles or dark circles, a targeted eye cream could be helpful.
Skin Treatments
I’m also interested in what types of facials or skin treatments work. I like to know that if I’m going to treat myself to a non-surgical aesthetic treatment, it’s going to be effective and focus on improving skin health and appearance. Here are the ones Kuljeet recommends.
Chemical Peels: These exfoliate the top layer of skin, promoting cell turnover and targeting concerns like fine lines, wrinkles, and pigmentation.
Microneedling: This treatment uses tiny needles to create controlled micro-injuries in the skin. The body's natural healing response then increases collagen and elastin production for a firmer, younger-looking appearance. It's recommended to use retinol beforehand to boost collagen production further.
Skin Boosters: These injectable treatments, like Profhilo, contain hyaluronic acid (a hydrating molecule) that plumps and hydrates the skin. Unlike fillers, they don't add volume in specific areas but rather improve overall skin quality and stimulate collagen production.
Polynucleotides: This new injectable treatment uses fish DNA to stimulate cell repair and improve overall skin health. It's a natural approach to promoting collagen production and rejuvenation.
Platelet-Rich Plasma (PRP): This treatment involves injecting a concentration of a patient's own platelets back into the skin. The growth factors in the platelets can stimulate tissue repair and rejuvenation. However, the effectiveness might be impacted by factors like diet.
However, focus on getting your skin as healthy as possible before undergoing any aesthetic treatment. Start with a good skincare routine that includes retinol, then consider these additional options to target specific concerns or enhance overall results.
My Final Thoughts and Regime
While this conversation might introduce various products and treatments, remember, a good skincare routine doesn't have to be overwhelming. Think of it as an investment in yourself and your well-being. Just like a healthy diet or regular exercise, a thoughtful skincare routine can leave you feeling confident about your skin and relaxed and in control of your health.
Taking a few minutes each day for your skincare routine isn't just about physical results. It can be a mini mental health break too! That pampering time allows you to focus on yourself, unwind, and practice some self-care, leaving you feeling relaxed and ready to take on the day. So explore the options, find what works for you, and embrace this act of self-care. Your skin will thank you for it!
After this thorough consultation, I’m changing up my skincare regime as follows. It’s a mix of very cheap and very expensive products, but I’ve decided to splurge on the medical-grade ones proven to work and save on the ones which do the same job regardless of price. I’ll be taking before and after photos and noting down changes, so watch this space for the results in about 6-8 weeks' time:
Morning Routine
Cleanser: The Beauty Crop Peptide Cleansing Balm (same as before). Full size £12, refills £8.
Hyaluronic Acid Serum: I’ve decided to remove this from my routine as the Vitamin C serum and moisturiser containing hyaluronic acid should be enough for my skin.
Vitamin C Serum: Arbonne DermResults Illuminating Skin Therapy Concentrate with 15% Vitamin C, 2% Bakuchiol, and 1% Ferulic Acid. This is £102 full price, but I’ve never paid that price for it! If you buy other Arbonne products anyway (I use their supplements), you can often get it free as part of a flash buy or special offer. Note: I’m not an Arbonne consultant, but love their products and brand values. If you are interested in trying Arbonne products, I highly recommend Arbonne consultant Jessica Brown on Instagram.
Moisturiser: CeraVe facial moisturising lotion also contains hyaluronic acid, so I do not need a hyaluronic acid serum, £12.99.
SPF: L'Oreal Revitalift Clinical SPF50+ Invisible Fluid, £10, or Beauty Crop Vitamin Babe Vitamin Enriched Glow Primer SPF 45, £8, (same as before)
Nighttime Routine
Cleanser: The Beauty Crop Peptide Cleansing Balm (same as the morning).
Retinol: Skinbetter Science Alpharet Overnight cream, which combines lactic acid with retinol (patented formulation) - great for all skin types, £134. This is my all-in-one retinol, overnight cream, and exfoliator (lactic acid).